Alessandro Pascolo ha sette ettari di vigneti sulla collina di Ruttars, una frazione di Dolegna del Collio. Con i sui 30 mila bottiglia prova di esprimere il massimo della qualità possibile in Friuli Venezia Giulia. In questa prima parte parliamo del suo famoso Pinot Bianco, ma anche dei altri vini che lui fa. Seconda parte prossima mercoledì!
[00:00:10] Welcome to La Taverna, Friuli Wines.
[00:00:16] The definitive podcast on the wines of Friuli, Venezia Giulia.
[00:00:21] I'm Wayne Young, Lost.
[00:00:31] Oh, finally back friends of wine Friulani.
[00:00:37] I'm Wayne Young, La Taverna Friuli Wines.
[00:00:41] Welcome to all of you.
[00:00:43] How nice to be here again with you.
[00:00:47] I'm ready, I'm loaded with so many new wines for the sixth season of La Taverna.
[00:00:55] I guarantee you every Wednesday a new episode of this podcast.
[00:01:00] The third year of La Taverna, almost 100 episodes.
[00:01:05] And I thank you all for following me.
[00:01:09] And I hope that I'm always more than you follow me.
[00:01:13] Thank you very much.
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[00:01:39] I wanted to make a special thank you for my friend Mattia who left me a voice message with compliments for the podcast.
[00:01:50] This is the energy that pushes me to do this beautiful podcast.
[00:01:57] These compliments make me so much energy, enthusiasm.
[00:02:04] I want to go ahead.
[00:02:07] Maybe you have some producers who haven't interviewed me.
[00:02:11] Send me a message.
[00:02:14] Let me know about these people.
[00:02:15] Another person in the world of wine and fruit should not be a producer.
[00:02:20] Could be a sommelier or someone else.
[00:02:23] Let me know.
[00:02:24] I want to hear from you.
[00:02:26] What a beautiful summer.
[00:02:27] It was hot, but what did you drink this summer?
[00:02:30] I made a beautiful trip to the area of La Loira to see a bit of Shen and Blanc.
[00:02:37] Beautiful wine that can be made sparkling, you can make stop wines,
[00:02:41] you can make sweet wines where I discovered a area called Bonzo,
[00:02:47] which is always Bonzo, but Bonzo, that makes spectacular wine, really a discovery.
[00:02:56] For you this summer I remember a beautiful bottle of Pinot Nero from the two lands.
[00:03:04] 2020 had a lot of life still, maybe I could leave a couple of years more inside the canteen,
[00:03:14] but it was a very elegant wine shared with friends at a dinner in Austria.
[00:03:20] Beautiful evening.
[00:03:22] Today we are talking about Routards in Coly, with the first part of this conversation with Alessandro Pascolo.
[00:03:31] The first time I visited Alessandro's company I was in love with the view of a really beautiful view.
[00:03:42] A panorama of almost 360 degrees of the hills of Coly.
[00:03:48] The wines are equally beautiful, especially the white wine that has become famous.
[00:03:54] I really liked this conversation with Alessandro because you can feel that he is melting during the episode.
[00:04:04] And I like it, especially when he talks about his wines, but he is a humble person, but direct,
[00:04:11] a great producer, a great technician and someone who works all his life to understand and express
[00:04:20] the maximum quality of his wines.
[00:04:24] Let's go on with this first part of this conversation with Alessandro Pascolo,
[00:04:32] this great producer of Routards.
[00:04:44] What is white wine that you are a passion for?
[00:04:52] We talk about other wines, but white wine is a type of focus for you.
[00:04:58] White wine is a personal passion, we have always made little white wine,
[00:05:04] because we have little wine, even if since 2019 we have practically doubled the surface,
[00:05:11] we are now going to extract the black wine from the Chardonnay and replanting it in white wine.
[00:05:16] So, potentially from those 1500-600 bottles that we are producing today,
[00:05:22] we can arrive when the wine will be produced at 3000 bottles, which are not many,
[00:05:29] but it is double, so 7-8% of my production starts to become 15-15,000.
[00:05:41] So, for us it is an important increase, but when we made little white wine,
[00:05:49] it was always a wine that fascinated me, because in my opinion it is one of those wines
[00:05:55] that can read the territory, so to value the crew,
[00:06:00] because in the virtue of its delicacy and the aromatic content
[00:06:08] it can translate in wine the most particular swimmings of the place where it grows.
[00:06:15] So, if we talk about coals, especially if we talk about rooters,
[00:06:19] all the part related to salt, to minerality and freshness,
[00:06:25] so the verticality of the wine with white wine is expressed much better
[00:06:29] than a friolano or a sauvignon, even though they have completely different characteristics
[00:06:37] that at the level of variety go a little bit to, let's say,
[00:06:42] to mask these territorial characteristics.
[00:06:48] They translate fundamentally in another way, less visible, less understandable,
[00:06:55] with less clarity. So, white wine is also a wine that I have always liked
[00:06:58] for elegance, so for the measure of wine, for detail,
[00:07:03] for the aromatic and taste, and then, in my opinion,
[00:07:13] as far as my crew is concerned, because we only have rooters,
[00:07:17] so we don't buy grapes from other suppliers,
[00:07:22] we don't have wine in affit in other places,
[00:07:24] and therefore, I mean, the wines are all there,
[00:07:27] so the most sensible thing is, obviously, to try to value and translate
[00:07:33] the strongest characteristics of your crew in the bottle.
[00:07:38] And white wine, in my opinion, is one of those varieties that can be translated
[00:07:41] in a very clear way, very precise, these characteristics
[00:07:46] of the rooters' line. So it's true that we, the white wine,
[00:07:50] we mean it both as classic, in purity, in steel,
[00:07:55] which is what we have always done, to which the selection,
[00:08:00] reserve, etiquette, which we call white etiquette,
[00:08:02] in reality, with a very delicate finish in wood,
[00:08:08] but above all, a longer finish in bottle,
[00:08:10] so a wine that comes out in three years from the pandemic.
[00:08:12] And therefore, let's say, a more complex white wine,
[00:08:16] a little more mature, but also more characteristic,
[00:08:20] more territorial, precisely because after three years,
[00:08:22] the territory comes out a little more,
[00:08:26] compared to when the wine is younger,
[00:08:30] where the subterranean, perhaps a little more defined,
[00:08:32] are a little more different.
[00:08:34] So, in addition to these two fresh and reserve versions,
[00:08:37] for us white wine is important because it is part of,
[00:08:39] in a determined way, our historic blend,
[00:08:42] which is called Agnul, so our white colio,
[00:08:46] which, for twenty years, is a base of Tokai,
[00:08:50] white wine and very little wine.
[00:08:54] So, white wine, as long as the wine is small,
[00:08:57] actually competes in our most important wines,
[00:09:00] including Agnul, which is a bit our visit ticket,
[00:09:05] as regards the complex white wines,
[00:09:08] where white wine is part of a determined part
[00:09:13] to go to cut, to gentile,
[00:09:17] to thank that base of Tokai,
[00:09:20] important, and that small salde de Sauvignon,
[00:09:23] which is a bit of a aromatic sprint.
[00:09:24] So, here's why white wine, for me,
[00:09:28] is an important wine,
[00:09:29] because it has this use in the expression of the crew,
[00:09:34] in a very clear way, very clear.
[00:09:37] Let's talk about this crew, of Rutars,
[00:09:40] because the memory I have,
[00:09:44] when the first time I visited Terra,
[00:09:46] this mozzafiato panorama was incredible to see.
[00:09:53] All these hills, practically scattered in front of you,
[00:09:58] a really beautiful place.
[00:09:59] Let's talk a bit about this special place.
[00:10:02] Yes, so Rutars is a particular hill,
[00:10:05] it's the last plain in the south of the village of Doleigna,
[00:10:09] which is the most northern village of the Colio.
[00:10:13] So, let's say, it's halfway between the expression
[00:10:17] a little bit fresher,
[00:10:19] with a slightly lower temperature than the North Colio,
[00:10:22] and the part a little bit warmer than the one of Brazzano-Cormonska-Priva.
[00:10:27] So it's in this, let's say, limbo,
[00:10:30] in this half-way,
[00:10:33] and from a climatic point of view,
[00:10:36] indeed, this has a great influence,
[00:10:40] precisely because we have very sunny and often very hot days,
[00:10:45] with very warm nights,
[00:10:48] because the sea breeze comes very directly,
[00:10:50] the hill is high, so it's also very ventilated.
[00:10:54] So the thermal travel is very clear during the day and night,
[00:10:58] and this makes it so that,
[00:10:59] at the harvest, the grapes are still rich in structure and sugar,
[00:11:05] precisely because it's hot during the day,
[00:11:08] but they maintain a much more sensitive acidity
[00:11:14] than the warmer areas, like, for example, Cormonska.
[00:11:17] So there's this little dichotomy between the structure and the freshness,
[00:11:23] and in fact, among other things,
[00:11:25] one of the most precocci of the Colio is split together.
[00:11:28] So when it starts to get wet,
[00:11:30] usually the grapes that start first are,
[00:11:33] they make a race between split and split.
[00:11:37] Then, it's a high hill,
[00:11:42] we reach 220 meters starting from zero,
[00:11:46] so from the river Yudri,
[00:11:48] it goes up to 220-230 meters
[00:11:52] in the arch of just a little less than a kilometer.
[00:11:57] So this means that it is actually a very straight hill,
[00:12:01] very fast, the vineyards have important slopes,
[00:12:05] which are not a factor that is only limited
[00:12:11] from the point of view of the work,
[00:12:13] so it's a little bit more difficult because there's more slope.
[00:12:17] But it's a factor that influences very directly on the grapes,
[00:12:22] precisely because these slopes make the vineyard more exposed,
[00:12:28] it's much more superficial.
[00:12:30] There are some parts where, in fact,
[00:12:32] the slope you see naked eye,
[00:12:34] there's no layer of soil on top,
[00:12:39] the slope is not covered,
[00:12:41] because the washing of the rain
[00:12:46] takes away the most fine soil.
[00:12:51] And this clearly influences the vineyard growth
[00:12:57] but at the organic level,
[00:12:58] the grapes are salty,
[00:13:02] because the slope is directly below the roots,
[00:13:05] the roots are in contact with the slope.
[00:13:08] So if we go to Summar,
[00:13:10] the freshness we talked about earlier
[00:13:13] from the microclimate,
[00:13:15] from the thermal excursion,
[00:13:20] and this salt factor is very present,
[00:13:24] the result is that the wines are always very straight,
[00:13:27] very vertical, salty and fresh.
[00:13:30] They are wines to wait for,
[00:13:32] they are not wines that were ready in a bottle in March
[00:13:36] and from April I go to the restaurant.
[00:13:39] They are wines that are better to bottle in mid June
[00:13:42] and come out not before September,
[00:13:44] because they are wines that are a little bit uncontrollable,
[00:13:49] a little nervous,
[00:13:50] they are wines that have a different characteristic
[00:13:56] compared to the classic Collio,
[00:14:00] Zona Cor Mons, Prada Zegla Capriva.
[00:14:02] They are wider, more soft, more fat,
[00:14:06] so they also drink more harmoniously in the immediate.
[00:14:12] The wines historically,
[00:14:14] if we go to do a research,
[00:14:16] they have always been considered by local restoration
[00:14:21] to put the wines in a canteen,
[00:14:24] to put them away and wait a little.
[00:14:27] Yes, absolutely.
[00:14:28] Because they have this characteristic of verticality
[00:14:32] that predisposes the aging.
[00:14:34] Let's go, let's get into the immediate.
[00:14:37] Today, companies that have vineyards,
[00:14:38] what do they do with the vineyards?
[00:14:40] Almost everyone does the reserves.
[00:14:41] They don't reserve the old age,
[00:14:44] they don't make wine ready to drink.
[00:14:46] Because indeed the hill has these characteristics
[00:14:50] at the level of terroir, right?
[00:14:53] Certainly.
[00:14:54] And we, having the vineyard,
[00:14:56] all our six and a half are all there,
[00:15:00] clearly since 15, 20 years,
[00:15:04] we have really focused our attention
[00:15:06] on the variety and the crew expression,
[00:15:10] so going to imagine the wines for a consumption
[00:15:14] in the 7, 8, 10, 15 or 20 years of the pandemic.
[00:15:20] So, strong play, we have moved forward in the bottles,
[00:15:23] we leave a little later,
[00:15:25] we do reserves that come out in three years of the pandemic
[00:15:28] precisely because this is our number,
[00:15:30] it is not exactly what distinguishes and characterizes
[00:15:33] our crew compared to other hills in the area.
[00:15:37] So this is a bit of our idea,
[00:15:41] not to make wine.
[00:15:42] Before we go ahead and talk about other wines,
[00:15:45] because obviously you are not alone,
[00:15:47] Pinot Bianco,
[00:15:48] but I wanted to talk a little bit about you
[00:15:50] and your story, because, I don't know,
[00:15:53] you were the son of a family,
[00:15:57] wine producers or how do you tell me
[00:16:00] your story?
[00:16:01] So, this year, in 2024,
[00:16:04] we celebrate the 50 years of Ruttar's presence.
[00:16:07] It is an important anniversary.
[00:16:11] We come to Ruttar's from our family
[00:16:14] who comes here from Baseliano,
[00:16:17] so between Udine and Codroipo,
[00:16:21] full of grave friulis.
[00:16:23] We are not originally vignayoli,
[00:16:27] my grandfather used to work
[00:16:29] as a mobile seller,
[00:16:31] he worked in the management sector.
[00:16:35] With the first soldiers in the 70s,
[00:16:39] he decided to return to the land
[00:16:41] because in the Friulano's DNA
[00:16:43] there is the countryside,
[00:16:45] there is the land,
[00:16:46] we have it in the blood.
[00:16:47] You also heard this approach.
[00:16:50] Absolutely.
[00:16:51] So he said,
[00:16:52] ok, with these soldiers
[00:16:55] we return to the land.
[00:16:59] He came to know that there was this
[00:17:02] sales power,
[00:17:03] Ruttar's, from his childhood
[00:17:05] who lived here in Brazzano.
[00:17:09] So he sees it and falls in love.
[00:17:12] How not to fall in love at that time?
[00:17:15] Yes, obviously,
[00:17:17] 50 years ago it wasn't like we see it today.
[00:17:19] He wanted a bit of a look
[00:17:21] to understand what he had done.
[00:17:24] So he was completely virgin,
[00:17:25] he wasn't...
[00:17:26] He was a bit of a vignette,
[00:17:28] very little,
[00:17:29] clearly the lands were not
[00:17:30] as we see them today.
[00:17:33] There was a bit of
[00:17:35] food,
[00:17:36] some lifeguards,
[00:17:37] some wild Chileans,
[00:17:40] something like that.
[00:17:42] The company center was
[00:17:45] basically
[00:17:46] made up of ruddery,
[00:17:48] basically,
[00:17:49] but they lived in two families of
[00:17:51] settlers,
[00:17:53] because this property,
[00:17:54] like the 80% of Ruttar,
[00:17:57] was the property of a
[00:17:59] lady,
[00:18:00] well-off,
[00:18:01] of Cormons.
[00:18:04] She obviously had
[00:18:06] the families of settlers who
[00:18:08] managed her lands
[00:18:10] at the level of Mezzadria.
[00:18:11] Ok.
[00:18:12] So she didn't buy
[00:18:15] this power,
[00:18:16] she had 13 hectares of land,
[00:18:21] and these two houses
[00:18:22] are almost abandoned now.
[00:18:26] Slowly, slowly,
[00:18:27] the wine starts to produce,
[00:18:28] because there was a bit of vignette.
[00:18:30] So obviously
[00:18:31] it didn't throw away the grapes.
[00:18:33] Of course not.
[00:18:34] It starts to produce
[00:18:35] the first dandruff of wine
[00:18:37] for friends,
[00:18:38] completely self-adapted.
[00:18:40] And then you don't know
[00:18:42] if it's because the grandfather
[00:18:44] was particularly nice,
[00:18:45] or the wine was particularly good,
[00:18:47] friends started to multiply.
[00:18:48] They started to multiply,
[00:18:49] the wine wasn't enough.
[00:18:51] And so slowly
[00:18:53] the farm started to run away
[00:18:54] a bit of a hand,
[00:18:56] and slowly
[00:18:57] the wine became a job.
[00:19:00] So at the end of the 80s
[00:19:03] the grandfather had almost
[00:19:05] 70 years old
[00:19:07] and he asked the children
[00:19:11] what we wanted to do
[00:19:13] with this thing.
[00:19:15] We wanted to continue
[00:19:16] otherwise we would sell it.
[00:19:18] And my father,
[00:19:20] who has never been
[00:19:22] particularly passionate
[00:19:24] about the farming sector,
[00:19:28] said,
[00:19:29] the teacher said,
[00:19:32] you continue
[00:19:34] with the furniture,
[00:19:36] I'm going to make the counter.
[00:19:38] So at the end of the 80s
[00:19:41] the father started
[00:19:41] self-adapted,
[00:19:43] working in the company
[00:19:46] and then
[00:19:47] the buildings were rebuilt
[00:19:48] and the cellar was set up.
[00:19:54] The terraces began
[00:19:56] between the 80s and 93
[00:19:58] the vineyards were planted.
[00:20:02] How many years did you have?
[00:20:04] I was 80,
[00:20:06] so I was 9 or 10 years old.
[00:20:09] So for me
[00:20:10] to be able to go back
[00:20:11] was the place of summer holidays.
[00:20:13] I followed my father
[00:20:15] who worked.
[00:20:17] I didn't because
[00:20:19] I always attended schools,
[00:20:21] let's say in Udine
[00:20:22] because we still lived in Baselian
[00:20:25] and my parents still live in Baselian
[00:20:27] so they have been doing the pendulums
[00:20:28] for 35 years
[00:20:29] and they stay there every day.
[00:20:31] I always lived there.
[00:20:33] When I got married
[00:20:35] nine years ago
[00:20:36] I lived there
[00:20:38] with my wife
[00:20:39] and my daughter.
[00:20:40] We made a life choice
[00:20:44] of stabilizing the cells
[00:20:45] which is more comfortable
[00:20:46] but I have to be honest
[00:20:48] it's much more beautiful
[00:20:49] and quality of life
[00:20:50] absolutely high.
[00:20:52] So my father
[00:20:53] continued to work
[00:20:55] to produce the wine
[00:20:57] in the 80s and 90s
[00:21:01] so a bit of exposure
[00:21:04] a bit of bottles
[00:21:06] and so on
[00:21:07] but all of that
[00:21:08] at the level of a car.
[00:21:11] Then we went abroad
[00:21:13] obviously as a whole company
[00:21:16] at the end of the 90s
[00:21:19] I finished my studies
[00:21:21] at the Udine
[00:21:23] and now I'm going to
[00:21:24] go to university
[00:21:26] My parents in all ways
[00:21:28] try to make me do everything
[00:21:30] engineering, economy
[00:21:33] everything you could do
[00:21:36] I have no idea
[00:21:39] I write without any degree
[00:21:42] and in September 1999
[00:21:45] I communicated with my parents
[00:21:49] I chose to write without a degree
[00:21:51] it was a bit traumatic for them
[00:21:54] because in reality
[00:21:56] maybe they hoped so
[00:21:58] but in practice
[00:21:59] they tried to make me do everything
[00:22:01] in all ways
[00:22:01] Why do you think they wanted
[00:22:04] that you do something
[00:22:06] other than the wine world?
[00:22:08] Because now I'm a 4 year old
[00:22:13] I understood
[00:22:15] because sometimes
[00:22:20] in families
[00:22:22] children can feel
[00:22:24] forced to continue
[00:22:26] doing what the parents are doing
[00:22:29] but
[00:22:31] those who work in a small company
[00:22:33] like ours
[00:22:35] must know
[00:22:36] that their time
[00:22:38] is not of their own
[00:22:39] but it's the company
[00:22:42] that manages your time
[00:22:43] or rather it's the vineyard
[00:22:45] that manages your time
[00:22:46] so you have to adapt
[00:22:48] your life
[00:22:49] to what happens in vineyard
[00:22:51] and then in a small company
[00:22:55] however today if you come
[00:22:56] to Iolo
[00:22:57] in September you become a vineyard
[00:22:59] in October you become a commercial
[00:23:02] because you go to find clients
[00:23:03] and in the evening you become
[00:23:06] an administrator
[00:23:07] in the sense that you are in office
[00:23:09] managing the cards
[00:23:11] and the bureaucracy
[00:23:12] so it means that you never end
[00:23:14] you don't have a period of death
[00:23:16] in which you can say
[00:23:17] but you know what I'm doing
[00:23:19] I go 15 days to New York
[00:23:22] Ok
[00:23:23] You can't
[00:23:24] You can't
[00:23:25] You can't do it
[00:23:26] So if you do it
[00:23:28] because it's your passion
[00:23:31] you do it voluntarily
[00:23:32] and don't get too heavy
[00:23:33] I wake up every morning
[00:23:36] every 4 or 5 in the morning
[00:23:37] in the vineyard
[00:23:37] Wow
[00:23:38] But don't get too heavy
[00:23:39] because that's what I like to do
[00:23:41] If I had to do it
[00:23:42] because I have to do it
[00:23:43] you would have ruined your life
[00:23:45] so I understand
[00:23:46] that my managers
[00:23:47] have tried to destroy me
[00:23:49] that is, the choice
[00:23:50] was a conscious choice of mine
[00:23:52] and not an obligation
[00:23:53] or an imposition of someone else
[00:23:56] because I would have had
[00:23:57] a life of frustration
[00:24:01] so they have tried
[00:24:03] to destroy the attention
[00:24:05] from that kind of work
[00:24:07] and it's exactly what I feel
[00:24:10] that I will do with my daughter
[00:24:11] if she wants to make the vineyard I own
[00:24:13] I will be the happiest father in the world
[00:24:16] but if she wants to do everything
[00:24:17] it doesn't matter
[00:24:19] I mean, what one has to do
[00:24:20] in his life
[00:24:21] he has to try
[00:24:22] the least he can do
[00:24:23] is what he feels inside
[00:24:25] and not what the others
[00:24:27] would like to do
[00:24:28] so, going back to the business
[00:24:32] in 1999 I signed up
[00:24:35] for the science degree
[00:24:36] in the old 5 years
[00:24:38] because at the time
[00:24:38] there were no more 2
[00:24:40] but only 5
[00:24:41] I finished my career
[00:24:43] in July 2005
[00:24:48] very well
[00:24:49] I signed up for the market
[00:24:51] in the territory of Collio
[00:24:53] and obviously
[00:24:59] from a student
[00:25:01] I started
[00:25:02] to enter the company
[00:25:04] from a viticolor point of view
[00:25:07] from an inological point of view
[00:25:08] so for example
[00:25:10] the vineyards between 2003 and 2004
[00:25:13] were all set up
[00:25:15] from the classic cappuccino
[00:25:17] to the gullo
[00:25:18] so with the base of the rice
[00:25:22] also the important
[00:25:23] in Cantina we started to make
[00:25:24] different choices
[00:25:26] so we started to prepare the field
[00:25:29] let's say a change
[00:25:30] I don't say philosophy
[00:25:33] but an important change
[00:25:35] at the level of the production
[00:25:36] of the vineyards
[00:25:39] but you wanted to look
[00:25:41] at a higher quality level
[00:25:43] because I always thought
[00:25:45] that it was a crime to be happy
[00:25:46] to make a good wine
[00:25:48] in a place like this
[00:25:50] you have to try to do
[00:25:51] the best product
[00:25:55] because not everyone
[00:25:57] is lucky to have a vineyard
[00:25:58] in a place like this
[00:25:59] so when the vineyards are in a place like this
[00:26:02] you have to be morally
[00:26:03] an obligation
[00:26:04] to do the best
[00:26:06] beautiful this
[00:26:07] you feel morally obligated
[00:26:08] morally of the place
[00:26:10] of the geographical position
[00:26:12] to improve
[00:26:14] and make a product as best as possible
[00:26:17] yes this is an idea
[00:26:20] it's an idea that
[00:26:22] that I always
[00:26:24] I always realized
[00:26:26] as indeed
[00:26:28] something indisputable
[00:26:32] you have the vineyard in a place like this
[00:26:35] and there would be other
[00:26:36] thousands of people who would like to have
[00:26:38] your vineyard
[00:26:40] so from that vineyard
[00:26:42] you have to take the maximum out
[00:26:44] absolutely
[00:26:45] but you have to take it out
[00:26:46] respecting
[00:26:49] what is your vineyard
[00:26:51] what is your land, your micro-climate
[00:26:53] your crew
[00:26:54] so it means that
[00:26:56] you have to make the best grape
[00:27:00] and transform it
[00:27:02] in the simplest way possible
[00:27:03] you have to make it feel
[00:27:05] that the grape comes from there
[00:27:07] I find
[00:27:10] a little
[00:27:11] out of place
[00:27:13] inventing
[00:27:16] vineyards
[00:27:17] strength
[00:27:18] or
[00:27:20] particular things to distinguish
[00:27:23] the grape
[00:27:24] give me an example
[00:27:27] of what would be best
[00:27:28] sell my tardives rather than new ones
[00:27:31] rather than
[00:27:33] macerations printed
[00:27:35] I don't want to go into too much detail
[00:27:37] because I don't want to get into enemies
[00:27:39] in the sense that
[00:27:41] each one has his own philosophy
[00:27:43] to make wine and it's just that
[00:27:44] for how I feel
[00:27:49] the vineyard
[00:27:50] or the being
[00:27:51] the vineyard
[00:27:53] is respect
[00:27:55] respect of your land
[00:27:57] and you have to show
[00:27:59] to make the person feel
[00:28:00] the wine comes from there
[00:28:03] because the impotence
[00:28:05] is that
[00:28:07] if one tastes
[00:28:09] the wine and says
[00:28:09] you feel that you made it
[00:28:11] for me it's a defect
[00:28:15] for me it's important
[00:28:16] when you taste my wine
[00:28:18] you feel that you have to fight
[00:28:20] because at that salt, at that freshness
[00:28:23] at that elegance
[00:28:24] at that longevity
[00:28:25] that that hill can give
[00:28:27] if one says
[00:28:29] but you feel that you made it
[00:28:31] because you have that style
[00:28:33] for me it starts to become a problem
[00:28:35] in the sense that it means that I went over
[00:28:37] I mean I went
[00:28:38] ahead of my vineyard
[00:28:40] and this is something
[00:28:43] for me and some maybe it's a prize
[00:28:45] you say you're so good
[00:28:47] that you feel that you made it
[00:28:48] actually for me it's the vineyard that speaks
[00:28:50] it's not the vineyard I am
[00:28:51] I'm not good at doing things
[00:28:53] but less possible
[00:28:56] trying to remove the most
[00:28:58] possible is because
[00:28:59] I'm more lazy and I do more
[00:29:00] feel the matter first
[00:29:02] so that's the concept for me
[00:29:04] if the matter is a big matter
[00:29:06] I don't need to do anything
[00:29:09] in the sense that I throw away the wine
[00:29:11] not alone
[00:29:11] I don't need to try to
[00:29:14] modify, to change, to adjust
[00:29:17] to correct or give a different form
[00:29:19] to what the vineyard has
[00:29:21] so my idea
[00:29:23] is based on this and therefore here's why
[00:29:25] white wine for me is important
[00:29:27] because it's a vineyard that
[00:29:29] if you want to pick up the hand
[00:29:31] you lose it
[00:29:33] explain this to me if you want to pick up the hand
[00:29:35] in the sense that if you
[00:29:36] at the level of canteen
[00:29:39] you have to choose, even vending machines
[00:29:41] for example, vending machines are late
[00:29:42] to have a little more alcohol
[00:29:43] lost with fresh part, fine
[00:29:45] between great and white wine
[00:29:47] if at the level of canteen you want to play
[00:29:49] with wood rather than
[00:29:51] let's say having more fat wines
[00:29:54] more soft
[00:29:55] even here the white wine doesn't forgive you
[00:29:58] because it's so delicate
[00:29:59] that it goes away
[00:30:01] while on other wines
[00:30:04] then, among other things
[00:30:06] you feel less a little more
[00:30:08] strong hand because they have
[00:30:09] a different personality, they are a souvenir
[00:30:11] so much so much
[00:30:13] but you have to have a distinctive character
[00:30:15] that in one way or another
[00:30:17] but it still comes out
[00:30:19] on white wine instead
[00:30:20] it's a wine that speaks low voice
[00:30:22] so if there is someone who speaks to him
[00:30:24] that is, the vineyard
[00:30:26] speaks to him with his ego
[00:30:28] white wine is simply
[00:30:30] it's said, you don't feel it anymore
[00:30:31] beautiful, beautiful this image
[00:30:33] that white wine has this low voice
[00:30:37] and you have to listen
[00:30:39] this voice
[00:30:40] you don't have to raise your voice
[00:30:43] and then you don't feel it anymore
[00:30:44] but having a low voice doesn't mean
[00:30:46] being caring about arguments
[00:30:49] absolutely
[00:30:49] it simply means
[00:30:53] communicating
[00:30:55] with them in a certain way
[00:30:58] and if there is someone who wants
[00:31:00] to over-start you
[00:31:02] who makes wine in canteen
[00:31:04] wants to put his ego
[00:31:07] white wine simply
[00:31:09] is said to be
[00:31:10] you don't feel it anymore, it could be any other wine
[00:31:13] and if you want to make it stand out
[00:31:14] it must be delicate, it must be sensitive
[00:31:16] like him, exactly
[00:31:19] this is what I
[00:31:20] try to do with all wines
[00:31:22] for me it is important
[00:31:24] that every wine is expressed
[00:31:28] so as for the
[00:31:31] the white wine, the fru-la
[00:31:33] the malvasia, the souvenir that I make
[00:31:34] my house is made of the same wine
[00:31:38] and they are made in the same way
[00:31:43] if we put the 5 sticks one near the other
[00:31:46] there are 5 different wines
[00:31:47] but apparently because there are 5 different
[00:31:50] so the technique
[00:31:52] or the canteen protocol
[00:31:54] in my opinion is to standardize
[00:31:56] the expression of the wines
[00:31:57] absolutely, yes
[00:31:59] we have talked a lot about white wine
[00:32:02] but the white wine
[00:32:04] is the grape that you like the most
[00:32:07] or
[00:32:08] it's like children who can't choose
[00:32:11] from one?
[00:32:12] it's difficult, every grape has its own
[00:32:15] it's a little bit difficult
[00:32:17] every grape has
[00:32:17] its characteristics
[00:32:20] it's right to respect them
[00:32:21] it's difficult to say I like it more
[00:32:23] I like it less
[00:32:24] white wine is certainly one of those grapes
[00:32:27] that I like to work
[00:32:30] even there
[00:32:31] even at the vineyard
[00:32:33] you have to have a particular
[00:32:35] sensitivity on white wine
[00:32:37] so for example
[00:32:39] management is a very vigorous variety
[00:32:41] so you have to
[00:32:43] try to keep it
[00:32:45] but without casting it
[00:32:47] at the production level
[00:32:50] at this stage
[00:32:51] I'm very closed
[00:32:52] so even there you need
[00:32:53] particular care because it's easily
[00:32:59] you have to
[00:33:01] try to manage it
[00:33:02] with balance
[00:33:03] which is a bit worth all wines
[00:33:05] on white wine
[00:33:06] there's a bit more
[00:33:08] also at the level of the gradments
[00:33:09] there must be balance
[00:33:12] so you have to have the sensitivity
[00:33:16] to understand the plant
[00:33:18] to see what the plant can actually
[00:33:21] what is the load it can
[00:33:23] manage
[00:33:26] behave accordingly
[00:33:27] at the harvest level
[00:33:28] I think on white wine
[00:33:31] and Sauvignon are the two varieties
[00:33:34] you can't miss on the harvest day
[00:33:36] because the wine
[00:33:38] has a lot of fat
[00:33:39] yes, the friulano has a limit
[00:33:42] the health
[00:33:43] the thin, the butter
[00:33:45] when it starts you're screwed
[00:33:48] but
[00:33:49] from the point of view of the balance
[00:33:52] it's not possible to keep it in the wine
[00:33:54] friulano, even if you wait
[00:33:55] one more day, one less day
[00:33:57] the healthy and healthy
[00:33:58] changes little
[00:33:59] because it's a wine that starts already
[00:34:02] with a little acidity
[00:34:04] you shouldn't be afraid of losing it
[00:34:06] because there is no more
[00:34:09] so at the end
[00:34:11] on friulano
[00:34:14] the healthy and healthy
[00:34:15] even if you wait one more day
[00:34:17] the healthy changes little
[00:34:19] while on white wine and Sauvignon
[00:34:21] especially with these
[00:34:23] climate
[00:34:25] August, September
[00:34:27] always warmer
[00:34:28] wait one more day to get that
[00:34:31] grape one more day at 35°C
[00:34:33] it means that the grape changes
[00:34:35] from today to tomorrow
[00:34:35] you lose a lot of acidity
[00:34:38] you lose a lot of fragility
[00:34:39] so actually you have to be very
[00:34:42] acute
[00:34:43] very present in wine
[00:34:46] and look at the grapes
[00:34:47] and analyze them day by day
[00:34:48] I also do two championships
[00:34:50] morning and evening
[00:34:52] to understand what has changed
[00:34:54] between the grape of the morning and the grape of the evening
[00:34:57] and sometimes you lose
[00:34:58] maybe half a point of acidity
[00:35:00] in one day alone
[00:35:02] maybe you see that you bought
[00:35:04] half a degree of alcohol in 12 hours
[00:35:08] so there
[00:35:09] you have to be very on the piece
[00:35:12] very careful
[00:35:13] very walking
[00:35:15] consuming the wine bottles
[00:35:17] to understand actually look at the grape
[00:35:19] look at the plants, what is happening
[00:35:21] day by day
[00:35:21] and on white wine and Sauvignon
[00:35:23] this is decisive
[00:35:26] for those who
[00:35:27] many people listen
[00:35:29] who know exactly what they are talking about
[00:35:31] but there are also people who
[00:35:33] are not familiar
[00:35:36] with these things
[00:35:37] to do a grape farming
[00:35:40] so can you explain a little about the process there
[00:35:42] yes
[00:35:43] this is the first of the sale
[00:35:45] so the championship
[00:35:46] consists of going to the vineyard
[00:35:50] picking up about 200 aces
[00:35:52] in a bag
[00:35:54] obviously not from the same plant
[00:35:56] absolutely no, taking it
[00:35:58] from all the vineyard
[00:35:59] for example from the grapes in the shade
[00:36:01] from the grapes exposed to the sun
[00:36:04] in the most vigorous areas
[00:36:05] in the areas maybe less vigorous
[00:36:07] where the plants are a little weaker
[00:36:09] so having a little
[00:36:10] a kind of photography
[00:36:13] in small detail of your vineyard
[00:36:15] as if you were to pick it up
[00:36:17] all together that day
[00:36:18] so taking these 200 aces
[00:36:21] about
[00:36:22] they are picked up
[00:36:24] you see, you make a pot of wine
[00:36:26] on this pot of wine
[00:36:27] you can do various chemical analysis
[00:36:32] chemical physics
[00:36:33] I
[00:36:34] I mainly
[00:36:37] focus on three fundamental parameters
[00:36:40] which are the pH
[00:36:41] so the acidity of the wine
[00:36:44] the total acidity
[00:36:45] which is the amount
[00:36:47] of acidity in the grape
[00:36:49] and the concentration of the sugar
[00:36:51] so translated
[00:36:52] how much alcohol you could have in that wine
[00:36:54] when
[00:36:55] I see that these three parameters
[00:36:58] are in balance with what is the goal
[00:37:00] that I have with that grape
[00:37:01] because obviously it is trivial
[00:37:03] but important to say
[00:37:05] that if I have the grape from the same vineyard
[00:37:07] I have to make a spumante
[00:37:09] I have to think in a certain way
[00:37:11] so more acidity less
[00:37:12] less alcohol
[00:37:13] if I have to make an extreme wine
[00:37:17] I have to think the opposite
[00:37:19] so less acidity and more sugar
[00:37:21] it is possible
[00:37:22] and we are talking about the same vineyard
[00:37:24] so the grape has always been
[00:37:26] in function of what I want to do
[00:37:29] with that grape
[00:37:30] so you are making a small mini-vendement
[00:37:33] I made this small mini-vendement
[00:37:35] when I see that...
[00:37:36] you go to the campion at noon
[00:37:37] and then you can do it
[00:37:40] up to two times a day
[00:37:41] yes, because I get up at 5 in the morning
[00:37:43] and I take the grape at 5.30
[00:37:45] after that I go to 5 in the afternoon
[00:37:47] and I take the grape at 5.30
[00:37:49] and I feel the difference
[00:37:51] absolutely, yes
[00:37:52] I remember that I asked this question
[00:37:56] only because I did this job
[00:37:58] when I worked in a company
[00:38:00] I hate that
[00:38:02] not only because
[00:38:04] often when I did it
[00:38:06] it was late in the morning
[00:38:07] then the sun had already arrived
[00:38:09] it was already hot
[00:38:10] and then after 6 o'clock
[00:38:13] this little bag that you made
[00:38:15] two aces, then do 10 steps
[00:38:17] exactly
[00:38:19] what a boring thing
[00:38:21] but yes, it's nice to explain
[00:38:24] because I think people don't know
[00:38:26] that this job is done
[00:38:28] and you have to walk
[00:38:29] everything you can do with a car
[00:38:32] you have to go there with your hands
[00:38:34] and tap, pull out
[00:38:36] an aces, every...
[00:38:38] I don't know, 10 plants
[00:38:38] so then
[00:38:42] at the end when I see that these three
[00:38:44] parameters are quite in balance
[00:38:46] or I think
[00:38:47] or I see how they are changing
[00:38:49] in time
[00:38:50] because they are going fast
[00:38:52] fast, slow
[00:38:55] when I see that we are
[00:38:57] rather close to what I
[00:38:59] would expect
[00:39:01] then you go
[00:39:02] to the mouth
[00:39:02] so you go in vines and you get tired
[00:39:06] because the mouth is the only
[00:39:09] instrument
[00:39:10] that allows us to have
[00:39:12] a complex picture
[00:39:14] of everything in real time
[00:39:15] so it tells us how much acidity
[00:39:18] but also the balance with the sugars
[00:39:20] with the aromas
[00:39:21] with the color of the vines
[00:39:23] so how mature it is
[00:39:24] and then in fact
[00:39:26] the final decision we take
[00:39:29] as a little
[00:39:31] the old publicity of the man of the mountain
[00:39:33] what was going on in the field of
[00:39:36] Ananas
[00:39:36] cut the Ananas, put it in the mouth
[00:39:39] and say it's ready
[00:39:39] so you can pick up
[00:39:43] that is the
[00:39:45] final judgment
[00:39:47] but it is supported
[00:39:48] and that obviously is based on the experience
[00:39:51] of the vignayolo
[00:39:54] but
[00:39:55] obviously it is supported
[00:39:57] also by
[00:39:59] scientists
[00:40:00] so the famous analysis
[00:40:03] of the champions we do
[00:40:05] we need to understand
[00:40:07] how close we are to the moment
[00:40:08] then the last detail clearly the mouth
[00:40:11] that tells us but we are calm
[00:40:12] and also there that on the other hand
[00:40:14] the lips are
[00:40:16] mature for what we want
[00:40:19] we want to do
[00:40:19] so this is important
[00:40:22] on many lips
[00:40:24] especially on the vittigny
[00:40:26] like Pino Bianco but also in the vignayolo
[00:40:28] for example that of the rheumatic part
[00:40:30] they do a little
[00:40:31] their battle horse
[00:40:33] I have this experience
[00:40:35] until 6-7 years ago
[00:40:38] our vignayolo
[00:40:39] were not constant
[00:40:41] there were beautiful
[00:40:43] nathes
[00:40:44] less interesting
[00:40:47] and I tended to
[00:40:49] blame the nata
[00:40:51] but it was too hot
[00:40:53] but that nataline was not right
[00:40:55] instead the cause
[00:40:57] of the
[00:40:58] the quality of my vignayolo
[00:41:02] was not as much as nata
[00:41:04] because I did not
[00:41:05] have
[00:41:05] yet
[00:41:06] in my mind
[00:41:08] a database
[00:41:11] of sensations
[00:41:13] of my vignayolo
[00:41:15] so I did not know enough
[00:41:16] of my vignayolo to understand
[00:41:18] what was the right moment
[00:41:19] to try and taste
[00:41:23] of vendemia
[00:41:25] now I understood
[00:41:26] that when I feel certain
[00:41:29] aromas, certain tastes
[00:41:30] of my vignayolo
[00:41:33] it is the right moment
[00:41:35] so this comes from the experience
[00:41:38] it is not just
[00:41:39] the taste
[00:41:41] of the aces
[00:41:43] of the grapes
[00:41:44] but in that particular
[00:41:46] it is the knowledge of the vignayolo
[00:41:49] so I know that
[00:41:50] when I go to a certain vignayolo
[00:41:52] and in a certain place
[00:41:54] I start to feel
[00:41:55] certain tastes
[00:41:56] like fish
[00:41:59] or fish
[00:41:59] or other parts
[00:42:01] of the beacock
[00:42:02] I understand that the maturation
[00:42:07] is coming
[00:42:07] and this is pure experience
[00:42:10] in the sense pure taste
[00:42:12] for years and years
[00:42:13] so until a few years ago
[00:42:15] I could not focus on the right day
[00:42:17] because I was not enough expert to understand
[00:42:20] then, with the strength
[00:42:21] to beat our heads
[00:42:23] I started to understand
[00:42:25] the flash
[00:42:27] of the lamps that are on
[00:42:29] when the right moment is made
[00:42:30] in fact in the last years
[00:42:31] our vignayolo
[00:42:33] for how many years they were different
[00:42:35] they always have a certain characteristic
[00:42:38] a certain qualitative level
[00:42:40] that I could not maintain
[00:42:41] I like this so much
[00:42:44] because
[00:42:46] often people think that wine
[00:42:49] and now it is just
[00:42:50] numbers, analysis
[00:42:53] all these things
[00:42:55] that are
[00:42:56] scientific
[00:42:58] and now
[00:42:59] you have seen that
[00:43:01] with the experience that
[00:43:03] is the old way to make wine
[00:43:06] the old counter
[00:43:07] did not have all these analysis
[00:43:10] he went around
[00:43:11] tasted some aces
[00:43:12] and said ok, now it's time
[00:43:14] to pick up
[00:43:16] so there is almost a return
[00:43:19] to the
[00:43:21] this
[00:43:23] as it is said
[00:43:26] wisdom of the counter
[00:43:27] that was not based on science
[00:43:30] but on experience
[00:43:31] let's say
[00:43:32] that there were times
[00:43:35] in which everything was done at home
[00:43:38] our grandparents
[00:43:39] did so, one year it was good
[00:43:41] one year it was less good
[00:43:43] those a little more good
[00:43:44] it was a little more frequently
[00:43:46] then there was
[00:43:49] the period of hypertechnic
[00:43:51] and of hyperscience
[00:43:52] for which Lua
[00:43:54] was almost useless, just have the numbers
[00:43:56] on the reports of the analysis
[00:43:59] to make wine
[00:44:00] now in my opinion
[00:44:02] is returning a little bit of an balance
[00:44:04] between the two things
[00:44:05] so the experience supported
[00:44:08] by the numbers
[00:44:09] so from the knowledge
[00:44:11] I always do this
[00:44:13] this parallel
[00:44:17] with my family experience
[00:44:20] my father
[00:44:22] is still active in the company
[00:44:24] because thanks to God
[00:44:25] a young father
[00:44:26] and so
[00:44:28] now I'm here to talk
[00:44:29] but he's doing the last treatment
[00:44:31] of the season
[00:44:34] he started making wine
[00:44:36] as he said, self-taught
[00:44:37] with a great desire to work
[00:44:39] great enthusiasm
[00:44:41] but without any kind of
[00:44:45] technical knowledge
[00:44:46] school
[00:44:46] and he's still
[00:44:49] he's been in the company for 20 years
[00:44:51] without problems
[00:44:53] investing, keeping his family
[00:44:55] and staying on the market
[00:44:57] but also in bottled wine
[00:44:59] or
[00:45:01] your father
[00:45:02] with this knowledge
[00:45:04] this experience
[00:45:07] self-taught
[00:45:08] he also put wine in bottles
[00:45:10] yes, he also bottled
[00:45:12] a small
[00:45:14] not 100% as we do today
[00:45:16] but 30%
[00:45:18] it would depend on when you were born
[00:45:19] 20%, 30% of the production
[00:45:22] was still in bottles
[00:45:26] until 20 years ago
[00:45:28] it was enough to have so much desire
[00:45:30] to work with it, so much enthusiasm
[00:45:31] so much commitment
[00:45:33] and the result
[00:45:35] was brought home
[00:45:36] in the company terms
[00:45:37] today
[00:45:40] it's no longer like this
[00:45:42] in the sense that
[00:45:43] the awareness of the consumer
[00:45:46] has increased
[00:45:48] so
[00:45:49] the wine consumer
[00:45:51] is expecting products
[00:45:53] that have a superior quality
[00:45:55] also the culture of the wine has increased
[00:45:58] the production costs
[00:46:01] I'm not saying they've increased
[00:46:02] they've decreased
[00:46:04] so making
[00:46:07] Damigiana wine
[00:46:08] or bottles
[00:46:10] of medium price
[00:46:12] in a line is no longer possible
[00:46:15] it doesn't stand
[00:46:17] anymore
[00:46:17] because you are
[00:46:19] very big, you have very small margins
[00:46:22] but on volumes
[00:46:24] you can do
[00:46:26] but if you're a small company
[00:46:28] or you make an excellent wine
[00:46:31] and sell it at the price it deserves
[00:46:33] or it's not standing
[00:46:34] to make the excellent wine
[00:46:37] but you have to know where to put your hands
[00:46:39] in the sense you have to know
[00:46:41] what are the important details
[00:46:42] that when they are important
[00:46:45] they are no longer details
[00:46:46] movement, no
[00:46:49] so making
[00:46:50] a little comparison
[00:46:52] is like Formula 1
[00:46:54] the last machine of the grid
[00:46:56] you do 300 then on straight
[00:47:00] it's a highly performing machine
[00:47:02] but
[00:47:04] it takes around
[00:47:05] 2 tenths of seconds more than
[00:47:08] what wins
[00:47:09] what is the difference
[00:47:10] of the small details that make a difference
[00:47:13] between who wins and who gets to the last
[00:47:15] for the wine today
[00:47:17] of quality, so are the small
[00:47:20] details that make the difference
[00:47:21] between the bottle of 20 euros
[00:47:24] and that of 6 euros
[00:47:25] because it's difficult to find
[00:47:27] wines that are not good today
[00:47:29] it's true
[00:47:30] the difference is on the good wine
[00:47:33] excellent and excellent
[00:47:35] the small company has to make
[00:47:37] excellent wine because otherwise
[00:47:38] you can't sell 20 euros
[00:47:40] because the market doesn't give you that money
[00:47:43] to be able to make that wine there
[00:47:45] you have to know exactly
[00:47:47] manage the whole process
[00:47:49] and all the small details
[00:47:51] that make the difference
[00:47:52] if you're not a professional
[00:47:56] if you don't have
[00:47:57] studies, bases
[00:47:59] of the experience behind
[00:48:01] you can't make it
[00:48:03] so it's not enough
[00:48:04] to make the wine excellent
[00:48:06] so it's not enough
[00:48:08] it's not like once that
[00:48:10] it can be self-adapted
[00:48:12] you can't be self-adapted
[00:48:14] because you can't get to
[00:48:16] that level that allows you to be on foot
[00:48:19] you have to study
[00:48:20] you have to be prepared
[00:48:22] you have to be a professional
[00:48:24] like in all other sectors
[00:48:26] so the concept is
[00:48:29] that because
[00:48:30] the father managed
[00:48:32] to make wine for 20 years
[00:48:34] I worked without a degree
[00:48:36] and since I wasn't
[00:48:39] satisfied enough
[00:48:41] I worked in 2005
[00:48:43] in September 2005 and I also wrote
[00:48:46] VitiColtura Enoologia
[00:48:47] to be even more
[00:48:49] more inclusive
[00:48:52] this is not
[00:48:55] that important
[00:48:56] you have to do it enough
[00:48:59] otherwise you can't
[00:49:01] you can't
[00:49:02] this doesn't mean
[00:49:03] that who does this
[00:49:06] is absolutely the best
[00:49:07] to make wine, its wines are the best
[00:49:10] you have to be humble
[00:49:12] you have to know that every pandemic is different
[00:49:14] every one has to
[00:49:16] study, learn
[00:49:18] learn, try
[00:49:20] and in the
[00:49:23] wine industry
[00:49:24] there is a problem
[00:49:25] there is a problem that
[00:49:27] if we see it from
[00:49:29] a certain point of view
[00:49:30] it's a limit, otherwise it's a fortune
[00:49:34] because otherwise we will go crazy
[00:49:35] there is a pandemic only every year
[00:49:37] so you have one opportunity to try
[00:49:40] exactly
[00:49:41] exactly
[00:49:42] and in that one opportunity
[00:49:44] it's not even said that you can try
[00:49:46] everything you want
[00:49:47] because nature commands you
[00:49:49] you have to adapt
[00:49:50] wine is different every year
[00:49:53] so every pandemic is learning
[00:49:55] even if you already do 30, 40 or 50
[00:49:58] every pandemic is different
[00:50:00] and therefore you have to know
[00:50:02] how to manage the diversity